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The Rolex Submariner isn’t just any watch; it’s the one that pretty much changed everything. Launched back in 1953, it quickly became the go-to choice for divers and has since evolved into one of the most recognised and sought-after watches around. Originally built to handle the challenges of underwater adventures, the Submariner set the standard for what a dive watch should be—robust, reliable, and ready for anything.
But it didn’t stop there. Over the years, the Submariner has made its way from the ocean depths to the big screen, even earning a spot on James Bond’s wrist. Today, it’s more than a watch; it’s an icon. Whether you’re a diver, a collector, or just someone who appreciates great design, the Submariner’s mix of style, history, and cutting-edge tech is what makes it a true classic.
Rolex Submariner Timeline: Key Milestones
1953: The Beginning – The Submariner is built, setting the stage for a revolution in dive watches.
1954: The Official Launch – Rolex introduces the Submariner at the Basel Watch Fair with references 6204 and 6205, featuring water resistance up to 1,000 feet (300 metres).
1955: The Mercedes Hands – The 6200 reference introduces the now-iconic “Mercedes” hands and a larger winding crown.
1959: Crown Protection – Introduction of the 5512 model with crown guards, giving the Submariner its signature look. The 5513 follows shortly, offering a non-chronometer version.
1965: Dial Changes – Rolex shifts from silver gilt dials to white print dials.
1969: Date Window Appears– The reference 1680 becomes the first Submariner to feature a date window, widening its appeal beyond professional divers.
1970: COMEX & The Helium Escape Valve - Rolex's partnership with COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises) played a significant role in the evolution of the Submariner's design, leading to the incorporation of the HEV to enhance its functionality for professional divers.
1983: Two-Tone Arrival– The 16803 reference introduces the first gold and steel (Rolesor) Submariner, blending luxury with functionality.
2010: The Rolex Hulk– The 116610LV arrives with a green dial and bezel, becoming one of the most popular contemporary models.
2020: The Modern Era – The Submariner range is updated with a new 41mm case and upgraded movements, continuing its legacy.
The First Rolex Submariner
The story of the Rolex Submariner kicked off in 1953, and the reference 6204 is generally accepted as the debut model, despite some ongoing debate. Around the same time, the 6205 was released with a slightly thicker case and a marginally larger crown, but both laid the foundation for what would become an iconic dive watch.
The ref. 6204 featured a jet-black dial, available in either a glossy gilt or honeycomb finish, with hour markers made up of a combination of dots and batons, along with an inverted triangle at the 12 o’clock position. These markers, filled with radium lume, provided excellent visibility in low-light underwater environments. Instead of the now-famous “Mercedes” hands, the 6204 opted for simple stick / pencil-style hands.
The bezel was another defining feature, marked for 60 minutes but missing the hash marks for the first 15 minutes, a detail that was added to later versions for improved usability. Unlike modern unidirectional bezels, the 6204’s bezel rotated both ways, as Blancpain held the patent for unidirectional bezels at the time. Despite this limitation, the 6204 was equipped with Rolex’s own innovation, the Twinlock crown system. This featured two sets of O-rings for enhanced water resistance, making the Submariner the first dive watch capable of reaching depths of up to 100 metres (330 feet).
These early characteristics made the 6204 a game-changer, setting the stage for the Submariner’s evolution into the iconic timepiece it is today.
Early Models
Soon after, the Submariner stepped things up with the reference 6200. This model introduced the famous "Mercedes" hands and a slightly bigger winding crown, which made it more user-friendly. As Rolex continued to tweak the design, they released the 6536 model, this time with a smaller crown and an improved movement, and even threw in a chronometer on some versions.
These small changes were just the start of what would be a long line of upgrades, but they set the tone for the Submariner’s future.
A Whole New Look (1959)
The late 1950s and early 1960s brought the introduction of two of the longest-running Submariner models: the ref. 5512 and its non-chronometer-certified counterpart, the ref. 5513. The 5512 remained in production from 1959 to 1980, while the 5513 continued even longer, running from 1962 all the way up to 1989.
Both models featured the new crown guard design, which added an extra layer of protection and gave the Submariner its distinctive, rugged appearance. In fact, the ref. 5513 is considered one of the most notable vintage Submariner references, thanks to its long production run and association with James Bond.
While these two models became the backbone of the Submariner range, Rolex wasn’t finished evolving the design. At the end of the 1960s, the brand took a bold step that would change the Submariner forever by introducing the first model with a date window—the reference 1680. This decision didn’t just split the Submariner line but also divided the opinions of fans, marking the beginning of the Submariner’s journey into a broader, more versatile timepiece.
The Introduction of the Date Window: Ref. 1680 (1969)
The introduction of the date window with the ref. 1680 was a turning point for the Submariner, signalling its shift towards broader everyday functionality. Positioned at the 3 o’clock mark with Rolex’s signature Cyclops lens for magnification, this feature made the watch more versatile while maintaining its status as a reliable dive instrument. Inside, the ref. 1680 housed the Caliber 1575 movement, ensuring precision and performance.
This model remained in production until the late 1970s and laid the groundwork for further evolution, hinting at the Submariner’s potential as a watch that could combine functionality with style.
The Military Submariners ("MilSubs")
While the Submariner was making its name in the civilian market, it also caught the attention of military forces, leading to the creation of the highly collectible "MilSubs." In the 1960s and 1970s, Rolex produced specialised Submariner models for the British Ministry of Defence (MOD), adapted to meet the rigorous demands of military diving operations.
The most notable MilSub references were the 5513, 5517, and the rare 5513/5517 double reference, all featuring unique modifications that set them apart from standard Submariners. These included fully graduated bezels for better tracking of dive time, fixed bars for greater strength when attaching the watch to a NATO strap, and sword-shaped hands for enhanced legibility underwater. The MilSubs also featured an engraving of the military issue number and the "Broad Arrow" symbol on the case back, indicating government property.
The COMEX Submariner
As Rolex was gaining traction in the military sector, their partnership with COMEX, a pioneering French deep-sea diving company (Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises), further solidified their reputation for professional-grade dive watches. From the early 1970s, Rolex began creating special Submariner models for COMEX divers, whose work in saturation diving required precision and durability at extreme depths.
One of the first models supplied to COMEX was the Submariner 5513. These watches featured the now-iconic helium escape valve, an innovation designed to release built-up helium gas during decompression. However, COMEX watches were not just modified versions of the standard Submariner. Rolex eventually introduced the Submariner 5514, a model made exclusively for COMEX, with the helium escape valve as a standard feature. Both the 5513 and 5514 were designed for use in extreme environments, making them vital for the company's professional divers.
Another notable model, the 16610 COMEX Submariner, followed in the 1990s, continuing the tradition of Rolex's partnership with the diving company. These watches bore the distinctive COMEX logo on the dial and were engraved with a unique serial number on the case back, adding to their exclusivity.
"The Name's Submariner, Rolex Submariner"
The Rolex Submariner gained legendary status when it became the watch of choice for none other than James Bond. It made its cinematic debut on the wrist of Sean Connery in the 1962 film Dr. No, where he wore the ref. 6538. This model quickly earned the nickname "James Bond Submariner" and featured prominently in Connery’s next three Bond films, firmly establishing the watch as a symbol of adventure, danger, and sophistication.
The association didn’t end there. George Lazenby wore a Submariner ref. 5513 in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, and Roger Moore brought it back again in two of his films, including a memorable gadget-equipped version in Live and Let Die. The Submariner’s last appearance in the Bond franchise came in Licence to Kill (1988), where Timothy Dalton sported the ref. 16800.
These repeated appearances cemented the Submariner’s place in popular culture and transformed it from a diver’s essential into an icon of style and sophistication.
The 16800 Introduces Solid Gold to the Range
Ten years after the introduction of the first Submariner with a date window, Rolex took another step forward by launching their five-digit reference numbers, starting with the 16800 and followed by the 16808 and 16803. These models are often seen as transitional watches because they retained many features of earlier Submariners but introduced some key enhancements that moved the range towards a more luxurious market.
One of the most significant changes was the replacement of the plexiglass crystal with a tougher sapphire version, offering better scratch resistance and durability, though the date window still retained its signature Cyclops magnifying lens for easy reading. Rolex also upgraded the crown to their patented Triplock system, enhancing water resistance, a feature that had already proven successful on the Sea-Dweller range. These technical upgrades increased the Submariner’s water resistance to 300 metres (1,000 feet), reinforcing its status as a high-performance dive watch.
The ref. 16808 marked a significant moment for the Submariner as it became the first to be offered in solid 18-karat yellow gold, with options for either a black or blue dial and bezel combination, introducing a new level of luxury to the series. A few years later, Rolex introduced the 16803, which was the first Submariner to feature a gold and steel combination (Rolesor), offering an 18-karat gold rotating bezel and central links that gave the watch a more sophisticated and versatile appearance.
Contemporary Models
The 50th Anniversary "Kermit" (2003–2010)
In 2003, to celebrate the Submariner’s 50th anniversary, Rolex introduced the ref. 16610LV. The "LV," meaning "Lunette Verte" or "green bezel" in French, marked the first time Rolex used green on a Submariner model.
Immediately nicknamed the "Kermit" by collectors, this watch quickly became one of the most sought-after variants from the Submariner’s neo-vintage era. The "Kermit" featured a Maxi dial with larger hour markers and hands, enhancing its legibility and bold presence on the wrist.
Solid Gold & The "Smurf" with Cerachrom Bezel (2008–2020)
In 2008, Rolex took a significant step forward by introducing the proprietary Cerachrom ceramic bezel, known for being both fade-proof and scratch-resistant, significantly enhancing the durability of the Submariner. This innovation first appeared on the solid gold models—the 116618LB in yellow gold with a blue dial and bezel, the 116618LN in yellow gold with a black dial and bezel, and the 116619LB, known as the "Smurf," in solid white gold with a striking blue dial and bezel. These models elevated the Submariner's luxury appeal and highlighted Rolex’s dedication to combining cutting-edge technology with high-end design.
Alongside the introduction of the Cerachrom bezel, the Submariner models received an upgraded Oyster bracelet with solid centre links and a new clasp, enhancing both comfort and durability.
The "Hulk" with the Super Case (2010–2020)
The release of the ref. 116610LV, known as the Rolex Submariner "Hulk", in 2010 brought another bold design to the Submariner lineup, featuring both a green dial and green ceramic bezel.
This model introduced the "Super Case," a design update that, while retaining the same 40mm diameter, featured thicker lugs and crown guards, giving it a more substantial wrist presence and making the watch appear larger. This change was met with mixed reactions among Rolex enthusiasts, with some loving the increased size and others preferring the sleeker lines of earlier models.
The 41mm Upgrade and Calibre 3235 (2020–Present)
In 2020, Rolex introduced the latest evolution of the Submariner with the ref. 126619LB New Smurf series. This range grew to a 41mm case, moving beyond the Submariner’s traditional 40mm dimensions. The updated design softened the bulky, squared-off elements of the Super Case, returning to a more elegantly sweeping silhouette while retaining the enhanced wrist presence.
More importantly, this update brought a significant upgrade to the movement. The Submariner Date models transitioned to the Caliber 3235, while the no-date version adopted the Caliber 3230. These new movements represent cutting-edge watchmaking, with around 90% of the components upgraded from the previous Caliber 3135, resulting in greater accuracy, power reserve, and reliability.
Buying a Rolex Submariner: What to Expect
The Rolex Submariner is one of the most iconic and sought-after watches in the world, and as such, prices can vary significantly based on the model, age, condition, and rarity. Here’s a quick guide to help you navigate the market:
Vintage Submariners, especially those from the 1950s to 1970s, are highly prized by collectors. The early references like the 6204, 6205, and 6538 can command prices ranging from £50,000 to well over £100,000, depending on their condition and provenance. The MilSubs (Military Submariners), particularly the ref. 5517, are extremely rare and can fetch prices upwards of £150,000 to £250,000, making them some of the most valuable Submariners on the market.
If you’re interested in more accessible vintage options, models like the 5512 and 5513 from the 1960s and 1970s typically range from £10,000 to £30,000, depending on their condition and whether they have desirable features like gilt dials or original parts.
The "Kermit" (ref. 16610LV) and "Hulk" (ref. 116610LV), which were produced from the early 2000s to 2020, have seen a surge in popularity. The "Kermit" can range from £15,000 to £25,000, while the discontinued "Hulk" often sells for £18,000 to £30,000 on the pre-owned market, as demand has increased since Rolex stopped its production.
For newer models like the current ref. 126610LN and 126610LV (released in 2020), prices typically start at around £10,000 to £12,000 for stainless steel versions.
If you’re interested in more luxurious options, expect to pay a premium. The solid gold models (e.g., ref. 126618LN or LB) can cost anywhere from £30,000 to £40,000, while the two-tone Rolesor versions (ref. 126613LN or LB) usually range from £13,000 to £16,000.
Explore Our Pre-Owned Rolex Submariners
If you're inspired by the history of the Rolex Submariner, why not explore our carefully curated selection of pre-owned models? Each watch in our collection meets our rigorous standards of inspection and quality control, carried out by our highly trained experts. We guarantee the authenticity of every Submariner we sell and provide a one-year warranty on all our vintage and second-hand wristwatches, giving you complete confidence in your purchase.
Discover your perfect Submariner today and own a piece of watchmaking history.
