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When it comes to luxury watches, we often marvel at the precision, the intricate movements, and the sheer artistry that goes into crafting these tiny mechanical wonders. But there's another aspect of watchmaking that's equally captivating and often overlooked: gem-setting. Imagine a watch dial that sparkles with diamonds, or a bezel adorned with a rainbow of sapphires and rubies. It’s not just about telling time; it’s about making a statement.
Many of these exquisite timepieces are one-of-a-kind or produced in extremely limited quantities, making them highly exclusive and synonyms with status. Access to these pieces is often reserved for a select few, highlighting their luxurious appeal. It’s not just about possessing a timepiece; it’s about joining an elite circle.
In this article, we’ll dive into the sparkling world of gem-setting in watchmaking. From the history and evolution of this craft to the different techniques and types of gems used, we’ll explore what makes these watches so special. We’ll also look at some of the most notable examples from top brands.
Historical Background
The Origins: 16th Century
Gem-setting in watchmaking might sound like a modern indulgence, but it’s a craft with deep historical roots. Let’s travel back in time to the 16th century when John Calvin, a leader of the Protestant Reformation, imposed strict regulations on jewellery and clothing in Switzerland. The irony? Pocket watches, seen as mechanical objects, were exempt from these bans. This loophole sparked the creativity of craftsmen who began adorning watches with precious stones, blending utility with artistry in a way that would lay the foundation for centuries of gem-setting.
Mid-20th Century
Fast forward a few centuries, and we find ourselves in the mid-20th century. During the 1940s and 1950s, practicality was king. Watches were designed to be functional and straightforward, especially for men. Gem-setting was mostly confined to women’s cocktail watches, adding a touch of glamour to evening attire. But even then, the art of setting stones on a watch was a niche skill, quietly preserved by a few dedicated artisans.
The 2000s: A Renaissance in Gem-Setting
The early 2000s marked a significant turning point. Advances in technology and a shift in tastes brought gem-set watches back into the spotlight. Suddenly, even the most robust and sporty designs were gleaming with diamonds, rubies, and sapphires. It was a bold statement:
luxury and toughness could coexist
Today: A Celebration of Artistry
Today, gem-set watches are celebrated worldwide. They’re recognised as works of art, requiring a level of skill and precision that rivals the most complex watch movements. From discreet hidden gems in a Patek Philippe Calatrava to the bling of a rainbow-set Rolex Daytona.
So, while the techniques and tools have evolved, the essence of gem-setting in watchmaking remains the same: it’s all about marrying beauty with function.
The Skill and Craftsmanship of Gem-Setting
Gem-setting requires a steady hand, a keen eye, and an incredible amount of patience. Imagine trying to secure tiny diamonds or sapphires onto a watch face without disrupting the delicate balance of the overall design and functionality.
Each gemstone must be placed with precision to ensure it’s secure and perfectly aligned. The setter needs to consider the stone’s size, shape, and how it reflects light. One misstep, and the entire piece could be compromised. This level of detail is comparable to crafting complex watch movements like tourbillons, which are celebrated for their engineering marvels.
Collaboration for Perfection
One crucial aspect that often goes unnoticed is the collaboration between the gemologist, the designer, and the bracelet engineers. This teamwork is essential to achieve the perfect outcome. The gemologist brings expertise in selecting the highest quality stones and understanding their characteristics, while the designer envisions how these stones will enhance the watch’s aesthetic. Meanwhile, the bracelet engineers ensure that the structure of the watch can support the intricate settings without compromising durability.
This collaboration ensures that every stone is not only perfectly placed but also securely set in a way that complements the overall design. It’s a delicate balance of art and engineering, requiring constant communication and precision.
Challenges and Solutions
One of the biggest challenges in gem-setting is dealing with the materials. Precious metals like gold and platinum are traditionally used because they’re relatively soft and malleable. However, modern watchmaking often involves high-tech materials like titanium and carbon fibre, which are much harder to work with. Imagine trying to set a diamond into a material that doesn’t yield easily to tools – it’s a whole different ball game.
Moreover, the stones themselves pose challenges. While diamonds are incredibly hard and can withstand a lot, other stones like sapphires and rubies are more fragile. The setter must handle these stones with extreme care to avoid chipping or cracking them during the setting process.
Types of Gem-Setting Techniques
Pavé Setting
Pavé setting involves placing small, uniformly sized stones closely together on the watch’s surface, creating a "paved" effect. The gem-setter drills tiny holes into the metal, where the stones are then placed and secured with small beads of metal. This technique is perfect for creating a glittering surface, often seen on dials, bezels, and bracelets. Pavé setting is labor-intensive, requiring precision to ensure the stones are evenly placed and secure.
The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5719/10G is an excellent example of pavé setting, with its dial, bezel, and bracelet all adorned with pavé diamonds, creating a dazzling effect.
Prong Setting
Prong setting, also known as claw setting, is one of the most common techniques used for larger stones. In this method, the gemstone is held in place by metal prongs or claws, which are bent over the stone to secure it. This setting allows maximum light to enter the stone from all angles, enhancing its brilliance and sparkle. Prong settings are often seen in rings and prominent watch designs where the stone is the centrepiece.
The Rolex Day-Date 40 with diamond hour markers often features prong-set diamonds, as do some of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore special editions.
Bezel Setting
In a bezel setting, a metal rim encircles the gemstone, holding it securely in place. This method provides excellent protection for the stone, making it less likely to be scratched or chipped. Bezel settings give a sleek, modern look and are commonly used in watch bezels and crowns. This technique is particularly favoured for its durability and the smooth contour it gives to the watch.
The Rolex Submariner has models with sapphires and diamonds set into the bezel using a bezel setting.
Channel Setting
Channel setting features stones set between two parallel metal strips or channels, with no metal separating them. This method is often used for setting rows of stones, such as on watch bands or bezels, providing a continuous and sleek line of gems. Channel setting is secure and smooth, making it a popular choice for areas of the watch that require durability. The stones sit flush with the metal, offering a streamlined and protective setting that holds the stones firmly in place.
Vacheron Constantin oftenuses channel setting for its diamond-set bezels, providing a seamless and elegant look.
Invisible Setting
Invisible setting is one of the most sophisticated and challenging techniques. In this method, stones are set side-by-side without any visible metal holding them in place, creating the appearance of a continuous surface of gemstones. Small grooves are cut into the stones' edges, allowing them to slide onto a hidden metal framework beneath. This technique is highly prized for its seamless look and is often used in high-end watches to showcase the gems’ brilliance without any visible interruptions. Unlike the channel setting, the invisible setting hides the metal framework completely, making the stones appear to float effortlessly.
Additional Techniques
While the above methods are the most common, there are other specialised techniques that watchmakers use to add unique touches to their designs:
Flush Setting: Stones are set into the metal so that they are flush with the surface, providing a smooth and sleek appearance. This method is often used for subtle accents.
Bar Setting: Similar to channel setting, but with individual bars of metal separating each stone. This technique offers both security and a distinct visual style.
Different Stone Cuts
Round Brilliant Cut
The round brilliant cut is the most popular and widely recognized diamond cut. It features a round shape with 57 or 58 facets, designed to maximise the stone's sparkle by reflecting light from all angles. This cut is commonly used in various parts of a watch, including the dial, bezel, and hour markers.
Baguette Cut
Baguette cuts are rectangular with fewer facets, typically 14, giving them a more understated sparkle compared to the round brilliant cut. They are often used in bezels and bracelet links to provide a sleek and modern appearance. The baguette cut's long, straight lines are ideal for creating a continuous row of stones.
Emerald Cut
Emerald cuts are similar to baguette cuts but with more facets (usually 57) and cut corners, which provide more depth and sparkle. The rectangular shape with bevelled corners creates a unique visual effect, emphasising clarity and step-like facets.
Princess Cut
The princess cut is square or rectangular with numerous facets, providing a high level of brilliance. It is a popular choice for those who prefer a geometric shape with maximum sparkle. This cut is often used in pavé settings and as hour markers.
Marquise Cut
The marquise cut is an elongated shape with pointed ends, designed to maximise the stone's surface area and make it appear larger than its actual carat weight. This cut is less common in watches but can be used to create unique and eye-catching designs.
Unique Cuts
Some luxury watch brands use custom or unique cuts to add a distinctive character to their timepieces. These cuts can include shapes like triangles, trapezoids, or even custom-designed forms that fit the watch's specific design aesthetic.
Types of Gems Used in Watchmaking
Diamonds
Diamonds are the superstar of gemstones. Known for their unmatched brilliance and incredible hardness, diamonds are a favourite in watchmaking. They’re used to adorn everything from the dial and bezel to the bracelet and crown, adding a touch of luxury and sparkle wherever they go.
Sapphires
Sapphires are a close contender to diamonds, especially prized for their vibrant blue colour. They actually come in almost every colour of the rainbow, as you can see on the dial of the Rolex rainbow Daytona. Sapphires are also incredibly durable, making them a robust choice for watch embellishments. They bring a vibrant pop of colour and can withstand the rigours of daily wear.
Rubies
Rubies are all about that rich, regal red. These gems are not just beautiful; they’re also tough, making them perfect for both decorative and functional purposes in watches. Rubies are often used as bearing jewels in watch movements because they reduce friction and wear.
Emeralds
Emeralds, with their deep, lush green colour, add a touch of elegance and rarity to any watch. However, they are a bit more delicate than diamonds or sapphires, which means they require extra care during the setting process. But when done right, they are absolutely breathtaking.
Exotic Gems
Beyond the traditional precious stones, watchmakers sometimes venture into more exotic territory. Gems like tanzanite, opals, and even rare garnets can be used to create unique and eye-catching designs. These gems offer a wide range of colours and patterns, allowing for more creative and distinctive watch designs.
Aesthetic Considerations
Discrete Gem-Setting
Discreet gem setting enhances the overall design of a watch by adding luxurious details that are not immediately obvious. It's about the small surprises that reveal themselves upon closer inspection. For instance, this Audemars Piguet Royal Oak with a skeleton dial features diamond-set hands.
These diamonds catch the light just enough to draw attention to the time, without distracting from the intricate skeleton design. This subtle use of gemstones adds a layer of sophistication and elegance, making the watch versatile and suitable for various occasions.
This approach to gem setting is perfect for those who appreciate refined details and a sophisticated look that remains practical. Discreet gem settings provide the opulence of gemstones while maintaining a balanced, understated aesthetic. They offer the wearer a sense of luxury that is both elegant and timeless, enhancing the overall appeal of the watch without overwhelming it.
Baguette Diamond Hour Markers
Baguette diamond hour markers are a striking yet refined way to incorporate gemstones into a watch design. These elongated, rectangular diamonds provide a sleek and modern look, offering a unique blend of luxury and functionality. Unlike round brilliant cuts, baguette diamonds have fewer facets, which gives them a more understated sparkle that complements rather than overwhelms the watch’s design.
Rolex Stella dials are a perfect illustration of how baguette diamond hour markers can elevate a watch’s aesthetic.
Rainbow Setting
Rainbow setting is a visually stunning technique that arranges a gradient of coloured gemstones, typically sapphires, around the bezel to create a seamless rainbow effect. Each gemstone is meticulously selected and placed to match perfectly in hue and size, ensuring a flawless transition from one colour to the next. The Rolex Rainbow Daytona exemplifies this technique, featuring a bezel set with multi-colored sapphires that create a vibrant, captivating gradient. This model also includes diamonds set into the lugs and crown guards, enhancing its overall opulence.
The Art and Assurance of Gem-Set Watches
High-profile brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier continue to set the standard in the world of gem-set watches, combining exceptional craftsmanship with luxurious design. The resurgence of this craft is highlighted by Patek Philippe’s investment in renowned gem-setter Pierre Salanitro, emphasising the growing appreciation for these intricate timepieces. When investing in a gem-set watch, it’s crucial to ensure the gemstones are factory set. Factory-set gems guarantee that the watch has been crafted and inspected to the highest standards by the original manufacturer. Aftermarket settings, while sometimes cheaper, often lack the precision and durability of factory settings and can compromise the watch's integrity and value.
At WatchCentre, we offer a wide variety of pre-owned luxury gem-set watches that have been expertly crafted and authenticated. If you’re looking to invest in a timeless treasure that will be cherished for generations, please get in touch.
