The Evolution and Legacy of the Submariner
Early Beginnings (1953-1960s)
The Rolex Submariner made its debut in 1953, representing a revolutionary advancement in the world of diving watches. With its robust Oyster case and innovative rotating bezel, the Submariner was designed to meet the rigorous demands of professional divers.
The initial model, reference 6204, was water-resistant to 100 meters, setting a new standard for underwater timepieces. This early period established the Submariner as a durable and reliable tool for divers.
The Birth of an Icon: James Bond Era (1960s)
The 1960s were pivotal for the Submariner's cultural significance, largely due to its association with the James Bond franchise.
The reference 6538, worn by Sean Connery in "Dr. No" (1962), became famously known as the "James Bond Submariner." This association with the suave secret agent elevated the Submariner to iconic status, blending its rugged functionality with a touch of cinematic glamour. The large crown without crown guards and gilt dial were distinctive features that caught the public's imagination.
Technological Advancements and Design Evolution (1970s-1980s)
The Submariner continued to evolve throughout the 1970s and 1980s, incorporating significant technological advancements. In 1967, Rolex introduced the reference 1680, the first Submariner to feature a date complication. The Cyclops lens over the date enhanced readability, becoming a hallmark of Rolex design.
The late 1970s and early 1980s saw the introduction of the reference 16800, known as the "transitional model." This model brought several notable upgrades, including a sapphire crystal for improved scratch resistance and an increased water resistance of 300 meters. It also featured the Caliber 3035 movement, offering greater precision and a quickset date function. The 16800 combined modern advancements with the classic aesthetics of earlier Submariners, bridging the gap between vintage and contemporary models.
The Modern Era: Balancing Tradition and Innovation (1990s-2000s)
In the 1990s and 2000s, Rolex continued to refine the Submariner, balancing tradition with modern innovations. The reference 16610, introduced in 1989, exemplified this approach. It maintained the classic Submariner aesthetic while incorporating contemporary features such as a unidirectional rotating bezel and improved luminous markers for enhanced underwater legibility. The movement, the Caliber 3135, was celebrated for its robustness and accuracy.
In the late 1980s, Rolex introduced the reference 16613, which featured a two-tone steel and gold configuration. This model became particularly popular for its luxurious appeal, especially with blue and black dial and bezel combinations. The 16613 received a facelift with the introduction of the 126613LB in blue and 126613LN in black, which have become best sellers. Additionally, the reference 16618, available in black and blue setups, provided a fully gold option that stood out for its opulence.
Celebrating Milestones: 50th Anniversary and Beyond (2000s-2010s)
To commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner in 2003, Rolex released the reference 16610LV, known as the "Kermit." This model featured a unique aluminium green bezel, distinguishing it from previous Submariners and appealing to collectors. The green bezel was a bold design choice that celebrated the Submariner's heritage while introducing a fresh visual element.
In 2010, Rolex introduced the reference 116610LV, nicknamed the "Hulk," which featured a green dial and bezel. This model showcased Rolex's proprietary Cerachrom bezel insert, known for its durability and resistance to fading. The Hulk quickly became a modern classic, appreciated for its vibrant colour and robust design.
Luxurious Variants: Incorporating Precious Metals (2008-2020)
Rolex further diversified the Submariner line by incorporating precious metals, appealing to those who sought both luxury and functionality. The reference 116619, introduced in 2008 and known as the "Smurf," was crafted from 18k white gold and featured a striking blue dial and bezel. This model combined the durability expected of a Submariner with the elegance of precious metals, making it a standout piece in the series. The 126619LB continues this tradition, offering the same luxurious materials and striking design elements.
The evolution and legacy of the Rolex Submariner are marked by continuous innovation and adherence to its core principles of precision, durability, and timeless design. From its inception as a pioneering diving watch to its status as a cultural icon, the Submariner has remained a symbol of sophistication and adventure. Each milestone in its development reflects Rolex's unwavering commitment to excellence, ensuring the Submariner's place as one of the most revered and sought-after watches in the world.
Rare Dial Variations
Certain dial variations can significantly enhance a Submariner's value and desirability. Collectors pay close attention to these differences, as they often indicate specific production periods or special orders.
"Meters First" Dials
Early Submariner models, such as the 5513, sometimes have dials where the depth rating is printed with meters before feet (e.g., "200m = 660ft"). This variation is particularly sought after by collectors for its historical accuracy and rarity.
Gilt Dials
Dials with gilt (gold-coloured) lettering and details were common in early Submariners. These dials have a distinctive, vintage look and are highly prized for their aesthetic appeal.
Explorer Dials
A few rare Submariners feature an "Explorer" dial, with Arabic numerals at 3, 6, and 9. These dials were typically reserved for the Rolex Explorer model but occasionally appeared on Submariners, making them unique collector's items.
Serti Dials
The term "Serti," derived from the French word “sertir” meaning “to set,” refers to gem-encrusted dials and holds a special place among Rolex Submariners. These dials are mostly found on Submariner models from the 1980s and 1990s.
Found in two-tone steel and gold configurations, and occasionally in vintage yellow gold, these dials often feature blue or black bezels with champagne or slate backgrounds. Diamonds mark eight hours, while sapphires or rubies accentuate the 6, 9, and 12 o’clock markers, with the date window at 3 o’clock.
Spider Dials
Spider dials, another intriguing variation, are characterised by a web-like cracking effect on the lacquer finish of the dial. This phenomenon, which occurred naturally over time, typically affects Submariner models from the late 1980s. While initially seen as a defect, these dials have gained appreciation for their unique and eye-catching appearance. The spider-like pattern is unique to each watch, adding to its individuality and collector appeal.
Unique Manufacturing Details
Certain Submariners are valued for unique manufacturing details that set them apart from standard production models.
Comex Submariners
Rolex produced special Submariners for the French commercial diving company COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises) starting in the early 1970s. These watches were customised to meet the rigorous demands of professional divers working at extreme depths.
Comex Submariners typically feature a helium escape valve (HEV) to release built-up helium gas during decompression, preventing the crystal from popping off. They often have the "COMEX" logo on the dial and specific case back engravings indicating their use by the company.
Notable references include the 5513, 5514, and 1665, with variations in dial and case back markings.
Military Submariners (MilSub)
Military Submariners, or "MilSubs," were issued to various naval forces, most notably the British Royal Navy, during the 1960s and 1970s. These watches were built to military specifications and were often customised for specific needs.
MilSubs typically feature fixed bars for securing NATO straps, sword-shaped hands for better legibility, and fully graduated bezels for precise timekeeping underwater. They also often have case back engravings denoting their military issue.
Key references include the 5513 and 5517, with the latter being specifically made for military use.
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Tips for Collectors: Authenticity and Verification
When investing in vintage Rolex Submariners, ensuring authenticity is paramount. The vintage watch market is rife with counterfeits and heavily modified pieces, making it crucial for collectors to be knowledgeable and cautious.
Here are some essential tips for verifying the authenticity of a vintage Submariner:
Serial and Reference Numbers
Serial numbers are typically located between the lugs on the 6 o'clock side, while reference numbers are between the lugs on the 12 o'clock side. These numbers are essential for verifying the production period and model type.
Cross-reference these numbers with Rolex's production records and databases. Websites and books dedicated to vintage Rolex watches often have charts to help verify the serial number against the production year.
Ensure the numbers are clearly visible and not overly worn or altered. Faded or tampered numbers can indicate a case swap or other modifications.
Dial and Hands
Authentic vintage dials should show appropriate ageing, such as patina, and the lume (luminescent material) should match the era of production. Be wary of dials that look too new or have inconsistent lume colour, as they might be replacements.
Examine the text, logos, and markers closely. Authentic dials have precise printing with no smudges or misalignments. Look for specific characteristics of the reference, such as gilt text, metres-first depth ratings, or specific fonts.
The hands should match the dial in terms of age and patina. Replacement hands are common but should be disclosed and accounted for in the watch’s value.
Movement
Open the case back to inspect the movement. Genuine Rolex movements are meticulously finished and stamped with the Rolex logo and the specific calibre number.
Ensure that the movement matches the reference number. For example, a Submariner reference 1680 should have a Caliber 1575 movement.
Look for service marks inside the case back. While not necessarily indicative of authenticity, these marks can provide a history of the watch’s maintenance, which is valuable information for collectors.
Case and Bracelet
Inspect the case for signs of excessive polishing or modifications. Original cases have sharp edges and well-defined lug holes. Over-polished cases lose these details and reduce the watch's value.
Verify that the bracelet is original to the watch. Rolex bracelets have specific codes and markings that correspond to certain periods and models. End links should fit snugly between the lugs without gaps.
Provenance and Documentation
Original paperwork, including warranty papers, certificates, and service records, significantly enhances a watch's value and authenticity. These documents provide a historical trail and proof of originality.
Watches with known provenance, such as previous ownership by notable individuals or documented history, are highly desirable. Provenance can add significant value and interest to a vintage Submariner.
Consult Experts
Purchase from well-known and reputable dealers who specialise in vintage Rolex watches. These dealers often provide guarantees of authenticity and offer recourse if issues arise.
Utilise professional authentication services. Experts can provide detailed assessments and certifications of a watch’s authenticity.
Every watch purchased from us meets our rigorous standards of inspection and quality control, checked by our highly trained personnel. You will have our guarantee on the authenticity of every watch we sell, and we offer a one-year guarantee on all our vintage and second-hand wristwatches.
We also provide a buy-back or part-exchange facility for any watch purchased from us. We assure our customers of our attention to your every need in buying, selling, repairing, or servicing your watch so that you may deal with confidence.
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Investment Considerations
Vintage Rolex Submariners have shown consistent appreciation over the years, with specific models experiencing substantial value increases. Factors such as rarity, condition, provenance, and originality are crucial in determining a Submariner's value. Watches with original parts, untouched dials, and documented history typically command higher prices.
Current Market Trends and Prices
The demand for vintage Rolex Submariners remains strong, fuelled by a growing number of collectors and enthusiasts. Limited editions, unique dials, and historically significant models are particularly sought after. Auction houses frequently feature vintage Rolex watches, with Submariners often achieving high prices. Recent auction results can provide insights into current market trends and help predict future value trajectories.
Here are some examples of current market prices:
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Reference 6538 'James Bond': Often sold for over £120,000, with exceptional examples reaching upwards of £160,000.
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Reference 1680 Red Submariner: Typically fetches between £16,000 and £32,000, depending on condition and originality.
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Reference 16610LV ‘Kermit’: Prices range from £12,000 to £22,000, with early examples in mint condition fetching higher prices.
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Reference 116610LV ‘Hulk’: Generally sells for between £16,000 and £28,000, reflecting its recent discontinuation and collector demand.
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Reference 116619 White Gold ‘Smurf’: Prices range from £24,000 to £40,000, depending on condition and completeness of the set (box, papers, etc.).
Long-Term Investment and Diversification
Vintage Rolex Submariners are generally considered a good long-term investment. Collectors should be prepared to hold onto their watches for several years to realise significant appreciation.
As with any investment, diversification is crucial. Collectors might consider acquiring a variety of models and references to mitigate risk and take advantage of different appreciation rates.
Condition and Maintenance
Maintaining the condition of the watch is essential for preserving its value. Regular servicing by qualified professionals and proper storage can help ensure the watch remains in excellent condition. Watches with original, unpolished cases and untouched dials are particularly valuable.
