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Rolex, a veritable giant in the realm of horology, has consistently pushed boundaries in design and craftsmanship since its inception in 1905. One of the clearest manifestations of this commitment to excellence is the dial – often dubbed the face of the watch.
Throughout its history, Rolex has ventured into the use of various intriguing materials for its dials, from wood to meteorite. Yet, among these varied creations, the Rolex Stella Dials have carved a niche for themselves. Distinguished by their vibrant hues and enamel craftsmanship, these dials were a result of a collaboration with the Stella company in Châtelaine and Geneva during the 1970s, which provided Rolex with a unique lacquer for this project.
What Is the Rolex Stella?
The Stella dials, with their vibrant hues and limited production, signified a bold divergence from Rolex's typically understated aesthetics. The origin of the name 'Stella' has been a subject of considerable debate and speculation. While some enthusiasts argue that the dial shades are reminiscent of the artwork of Frank Stella, others assert that the Italian market christened them 'Stella' owing to their brilliant, “star-like” character. However, these are merely misconceptions and neither of these theories is accurate. As pointed out in our introduction, their name stems from their collaboration with the Stella company that supplied the high-quality lacquer for these dials.
These dials stand out for their array of luminous, lacquered colours – from fiery reds and deep blues to soft pinks and electric oranges. Given Rolex's generally subdued palette, the introduction of Stella dials was a daring move. But it wasn't just about colour. It was also about Rolex's mastery over enamelling, a testament to the brand's dedication to perfection.
History of Rolex Stella Dials
The 1970s, often remembered as a vibrant decade, marked by daring expressions in the domains of art, fashion, and design, witnessed the inception of the Rolex Stella dials. Predominantly crafted for the President Day-Date during the 70s and 80s, these dials were an audacious move by Rolex, known for its classical and timeless designs. While ladies sized Day-Date models sporting the Stella dial are most commonly associated with the range, a limited number of other models, such as the Date and Datejust, were also graced by this unique enamel lacquer dial. Yet, these instances are so few they can be likened to horological unicorns.
Initially, it is believed that the vibrant Stella dials were targeted primarily at the Middle Eastern market, and to some extent, other markets like Asia. The vivid hues of the Stella dials might have seemed an ideal fit for these regions known for their penchant for colourful luxury items. However, during their production era, these dials didn't quite hit the mark of popularity Rolex had anticipated. Why? Perhaps the answer lies in the era itself. The 1970s, though brimming with artistic boldness, was also a time when the conventional norms of elegance leaned towards understated luxury. For a gentleman of that time, an elegant timepiece spoke volumes, whereas a bold and vibrant watch might have been seen as overly audacious.
Yet, the market limitations for the Stella dials weren't entirely rigid. Despite being intended for specific regions, a few Stella watches managed to meander their way into other markets. However, their audacious colour schemes often meant they languished unsold. Allegedly, several Rolex retailers, perhaps daunted by the challenge of selling these unconventional pieces, opted to replace the vibrant Stella dials with more classic alternatives. There are also whispers in the horological community that many unsold Stella dials met an unceremonious end, destroyed by Rolex itself due to their unsellable status.
Given these factors - their limited popularity during their heyday, targeted production, and the alleged destruction of unsold pieces - it's hardly surprising that Rolex Stella dials have become such rarities in today's market. Their scarcity, combined with their unique history, makes them immensely sought-after treasures in contemporary times.
The process behind these captivating dials was intricate. Starting with spraying the special Stella lacquer onto the dial, each layer was oven-baked multiple times until perfection was achieved. Afterward, a transparent varnish was applied, setting the stage for pad printing that gave a unique floating effect, reminiscent of some Rolex Daytona dials.
A testament to their exclusivity, every Stella dial was also crafted solely in solid gold. These included the ever-classic yellow gold, the subtly romantic rose gold, and sleek white gold. Some very rare pieces were also made in platinum. The attention to detail was paramount in these creations. Depending on the metal used for the watch, the hour markers mirrored it. For instance, platinum watches, an exception to this rule, sported hour markers in white gold. The print on the dials, too, was tailor-made to complement the metal of the watch, emphasising that each Stella dial was uniquely crafted for a specific model. This level of meticulous craftsmanship meant that these dials weren't simply interchangeable across different Rolex models.
This dedication to precision and luxury by Rolex not only cemented the Stella dials as masterpieces in their own right but also explains their extreme rarity and desirability in the contemporary market.
Stella Dial Colours
One of the most captivating aspects of the Rolex Stella dials is undoubtedly the range of hues they flaunt. Each colour, with its unique intensity and shade, speaks to the meticulous hand-mixed lacquering process used during their production over several decades.
Although these dials were made in a myriad of colours, based on rarity, they are primarily found in the following order:
Mauve
Yellow
Coral
Pale Pink (Or Peach)
Turquoise
Green
Blue
Orange
Red
Oxblood
One colour that stands out in rarity is the elusive mauve. These dials, much like everything Rolex designs, come with an aura of mystery regarding their production numbers. There's also a sporadic appearance of white dials later in the production line.
Features and Differences Between the Series
As the years rolled on, the Stella dials evolved, categorised into four primary series based on structural attributes and inscriptions. Each series, from the 1970s to the 1990s, brought subtle changes, reflecting the continuous innovation at Rolex. But what remained consistent was the distinctive personality each watch exuded, be it through simple stick indices or the more luxurious baguette indices.
The Stella dials can be categorised into four primary production series based on structural attributes and the inscription at 6 o'clock:
1970s Series
This series features a pan-shaped dial with the minute track on the sloped part, accompanied by the "T Swiss T" text at 6 o'clock. Typically, these have the reference 180X.
Late 1970s Series
Unlike the prior series, this doesn't have an angled edge. It still maintains the “T Swiss T” text at 6 o'clock. Common references include 180X and 1803X.
1980s Series
Produced until the end of the 80s, the text changes to “T Swiss Made T” with the 180XX reference.
Up to 1990s Series
Retaining the prior text, an additional feature was the minute track with Roman numerals every 5 minutes.
Despite these series classifications, variations within each category, especially regarding the indices, bring out the uniqueness of each watch. From simple stick indices to brilliant or even baguette indices, every timepiece embodies a distinct personality. The amount of diamonds seems to increase with those produced later in the series. Some examples show diamonds circling the whole way around the dial.
The dials can be found across several references, depending on their year of production:
Day-Date ref. 1802
Day-Date ref. 18038
Day-Date ref. 18248
Day-Date ref. 1803
Day-Date ref. 18039
Day-Date ref. 18239
Day-Date ref. 1804
Day-Day ref. 18079
Special Commissions
The allure of the Stella dials didn’t fade with their initial discontinuation. In 2013, a high-ranking non-executive of Rolex commissioned a distinct order. He sought a limited series of coloured Stella dials for the manual-wind Daytonas which were by then out of production. Alongside this, he also requested a set for the Day-Date collection with sapphire crystals. This seemed like a herculean task, especially since the Stella company had long since vanished and the coloured dial Day-Dates released by Rolex that same year were not Stella creations.
For the gold Daytonas, fewer than twenty were crafted, spanning four hues, with each colour dedicated to particular references. The turquoise and green dials, featuring gold subsidiary dials, were exclusive to the reference 6265. On the other hand, the red and yellow dials with contrasting black subsidiary dials were crafted for reference 6263. These bespoke Daytonas have never surfaced on the open market. They are believed to remain in private collections, untouched by subsequent ownership, probably still in the possession of the original commissioner or close associates.
From this unique order, there is only one model of the Day-Date known, which boasts a yellow Stella diamond-set dial in white gold with diamonds as indexes and a latin day disc engraved, reading 'Errare humanum est, in errore perseverare stultum' (To err is human, to persist is foolish).
Collecting Rolex Stella Dials
For vintage collectors, the primary allure of an item often rests in its condition. With Rolex Stella dials, the challenge of acquisition is twofold. Not only is securing a Stella dial Rolex an arduous task in itself, but finding one in impeccable condition is an even steeper hill to climb.
The materials used in crafting these dials, notably the lacquer paint, over time, have shown a propensity to deteriorate, often manifesting as cracks. The delicate enamel, particularly susceptible to impacts and other forms of wear and tear, further enhances this vulnerability.
Yet, the allure of the Stella dials in the contemporary age is undeniable. Their present-day popularity arguably draws from their initial lack of mass appeal. In a sea of classic Rolex designs, the Stella dials break the mould with their vibrant hues and distinct personality.
The Legacy of Rolex Stella Dials
The journey of Rolex's iconic Stella dials reflects a fascinating intersection of audacity and timelessness. For decades, the brand has championed subtle luxury and classic aesthetics. Yet, in the midst of this tradition, the introduction of the Stella dials in the 1970s represented a bold deviation, revealing Rolex's capacity for avant-garde innovation.
Fast forward to 2020, and a new trend began rippling through the luxury watch industry: the resurgence of the brightly coloured dial. This modern wave was largely spurred by Rolex's introduction of the Oyster Perpetual line in the latter half of the year. These contemporary watches, adorned with hues like yellow, turquoise, red, and more, contrasted starkly against the generally subdued palette associated with luxury timepieces. Yet, their vibrant presence was short-lived, as some of these audacious dials were discontinued within just about a year and a half of their debut.
For the seasoned Rolex aficionado, this bold choice of colours wasn't a fresh innovation but a delightful nod to the past. The vivacious shades of the Oyster Perpetual line bore a striking resemblance to the legendary Stella dials from the 1970s. Many discerning collectors were quick to spot this parallel, positing that these modern offerings were, in essence, a revival of the vintage Stellas.
This modern homage underscores the enduring influence of the Stella dials. Once an audacious experiment, they've now become a symbol of Rolex's legacy, illustrating how the brand's pioneering choices from the past continue to inspire and shape its contemporary designs. Through the Stella dials and their modern counterparts, Rolex reinforces a narrative of fearless innovation, demonstrating that the boundaries of luxury and style are ever-evolving.
Explore Our Rolex Watches with Stella Dials
The Rolex Stella dials, with their captivating colours and distinctive design, have carved a niche for themselves in the annals of horological history. Their rarity, a result of limited production and the passage of time, only adds to their allure. Over the years, these dials have become symbols of luxury and sophistication, sought after by collectors and aficionados alike. Their value isn't just monetary but lies in their unique story and the legacy they carry.
For the modern watch enthusiast, the journey of discovering the magic of Stella dials doesn't end here. At WatchCentre, discover our curated collection.
What is the Stella Rolex? The Stella Rolex refers to a series of vibrant and brightly coloured dials introduced by Rolex in the 1970s. Known for their lacquered, enamel finishes, these dials were mainly seen in the Rolex Day-Date models and stood out due to their unconventional and bold hues, marking a departure from Rolex's traditional designs.
What is the rarest Stella dial? The rarest Stella dial is believed to be the light purple or mauve variant. However, rarity can vary based on specific nuances, conditions, and the particular timepiece in question.
What is the history of the Stella dial? The Stella dials originated in the 1970s, standing out as a vivid departure from Rolex's typically understated designs. These dials are distinguished by their brightly coloured finishes, achieved using a high-quality lacquer. The name 'Stella' is not derived from any horological term but is attributed to the collaboration with the Stella company, which supplied this distinctive lacquer. While they were not widely embraced upon initial release, their limited production and striking appearance have elevated their status, making them coveted collectibles in the vintage watch community.
